Match your measurements to the right decade, model, and cut. No more guessing at the thrift store.
Start MatchingEnter your measurements and preferences. The matcher suggests which vintage Levi's models and eras will fit you best.
Enter your measurements and click "Find My Fit" to see recommendations.
Use the details on the care tag and red tab to narrow down the era of a pair you're looking at.
Select tag details above to identify the likely era.
How the 501, 505, and 517 changed over time. Measurements shown are typical for a tagged size 32 waist after any shrinkage.
| Model | Actual Waist | Front Rise | Thigh | Leg Opening | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 501 | 33.5" | 11.5" | 12.0" | 8.5" | Straight leg, button fly, unsanforized |
| 505 | 33.0" | 11.0" | 11.8" | 9.0" | Slightly slimmer than 501, zipper fly |
Lay the jeans flat and smooth out the waistband. Measure across the waistband and double it for the waist size. For inseam, measure from the crotch seam to the hem. For rise, measure from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband at the front. These flat measurements are what the fit charts use, so you can compare directly.
The biggest mistake is trusting the tag size. A 1970s 501 tagged 32 will measure closer to 33 or 34 inches across the waist. Another common error is ignoring the rise. If you prefer a high rise, avoid anything from the late 1990s onward unless it's a specific high-rise model. Also check for alterations. Many vintage jeans have been hemmed, taken in at the waist, or had the inseam shortened. Look for stitching differences at the hem and waistband.
US-made Levi's from before 1990 are the most sought after and tend to use heavier, more rigid denim. Mexican production became common in the 1990s and the fit is often slightly slimmer through the leg. Turkish and Eastern European production from the 2000s uses lighter denim with more stretch. If you're buying online, check the care tag photo for the country stamp.
Unsanforized denim has not been pre-shrunk. It will shrink roughly 8-10% on the first wash. For a tagged 32, expect it to shrink to about 30-30.5 inches in waist. Size up about 1 inch in waist and 1-2 inches in inseam. The Fit Finder's shrink-to-fit toggle accounts for this. If you're buying LVC (Levi's Vintage Clothing), it will always be unsanforized.
The care tag inside the waistband is your best dating tool. Look for the lot number format. Two-digit prefixes like "08" or "71" often indicate the year. The country of manufacture narrows the era: USA production dominated until the late 1980s, Mexico became common in the 1990s, and Turkey and Eastern Europe appeared in the 2000s. The red tab is less precise but still useful. All caps LEVIS means 1971 or later. A Big E (capital E) means 1970 or earlier.
The 501 is the original straight-leg jean with a button fly. It has been in continuous production since 1890 but the cut has changed many times. The 505 is similar but with a zipper fly and a slightly slimmer fit. The 517 is a bootcut that sits at the waist. The 550 and 560 are relaxed fits with a lower rise, introduced in the 1980s and 1990s. The 511 and 514 are modern slim and straight fits from the 2000s onward.
This guide is built from documented vintage Levi's sizing charts, collector community knowledge, and garment measurements. It is updated periodically as new information surfaces. Last updated: 2026.
Measurements are approximate and represent typical values for unworn or lightly worn examples. Heavily worn denim may have stretched or shrunk beyond these ranges. Always measure the actual garment when possible.
This is a reference tool, not a guarantee of fit. Body shapes vary and personal preference plays a big role in how jeans feel.